Pinterest Facebook Twitter Build your own reclaimed wooden chair by following these DIY wooden stool plans! This simple DIY farmhouse step bench is great for helping to reach things or to use as an ottoman or plant stand as well. See more reclaimed wood projects here, and build a simple bar stool or DIY stool too. Get this DIY Wooden Stool Plans here Simple DIY Wooden Stool Hi friends! It’s Mindi from MyLove2Create. Today I am excited to share my latest design, a simple wooden chair handcrafted from reclaimed wood. See my Elevated Planter Box ass, and my other contributor projects here. Isn’t that a fun little farmhouse with a fun wooden bench ?! You can’t beat the character of reclaimed wood. I used that same wood for the shelves in the Teen Boys Reveal bedroom, so beautiful! The idea for this step-by-step DIY bench came out of these cute wooden stools that I spied on at Target one day. I take a quick photo, because that’s what I do when I want to build something. It’s a good thing I did, because I couldn’t find this chair online, anywhere … so I don’t even know if they are selling it anymore. Never fear! You can make your own by following the plans you put together – you can use actual reclaimed wood or new wood, either it will work! How to Make a DIY Wooden Chair Click here to see the photo tutorial at Mylove2create This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. See our full disclosure policy here. Wooden Stool Dimensions By following the carpentry plans and using 3/4 thick planks, the Farmwood Chair measures 17 “x 11” x 14 “H. Note: If you are using thicker reclaimed wood, the height will vary slightly due to the added thickness of the top – Mindy Chair Closer to 14 1/2 ″. If you need a taller step stool, build a tipping stool (24 long) or a DIY stool chair (~ 46 ″). DIY Wood Stool Material The longest wood length required for this DIY wooden stool plan is 17 ″, so this is a great scrap wood project too! I used different widths of planks that I stacked together to get the widths I wanted for the upper and legs, but the materials list includes the widest panels readily available to make it easier to buy new wood. The use of reclaimed wood makes this handcrafted stool very beautiful with the automatic character of old wood! You can also use new wood, of course, and give it a restored look by hitting it a little like I did on my console table or by using the rustic layered splash technique as I did on the super easy farmwood bench. * Please note that I give the dimensions of 3/4 inch thicker lumber on the supply list and in the Woodworking Plan Pieces List. The wood I used is actually 1 inch thick treated wood and it might be hard to find, but slate cut can either be used for the thickness, or you can also use thicker wood, adjusting it to suit your needs / desires, DIY beauty. 🙂 TOOLS Necessary ** You can build this seat without pocket holes too, just pre-drill and use 2 to 2 1/2 inch screws (more details below). Tips for ripping boards with a circular saw Using reclaimed wood I was working with boards in a different width than what you can buy at the store, so I piled the planks together to fit the cut list dimensions of the plans. To make the legs wider, like my piece of inspiration, I needed to tear one of the three leg boards in half to add to the two leg boards. Instead of coming out of the table saw, I grabbed my trusted toolkit, Ryobi Circular saw, and my Kreg Rip Cut saw to do the job. If you’re using 1 x 10 boards you don’t need to do this step – wood is the ideal leg width. In the top left photo, you can see how I screwed my wood, this will enable me to use the rip cut around the clamp (see the top right photo). I have set my shredding pieces so the board is cut in half straight away, and the 2 x 4 support plate is sufficient so that my blade does not bump into it while tearing the board. Tips for ripping panels with a jigsaw when I did a dry fit on my wooden stool pieces, I realized I didn’t like how wide the bib pieces were and wanted them much smaller (which is why I included 1 x 2 planks in plans rather than thicker). Without my table saw, I knew it would be risky to rip a narrow piece like this on a miter saw, and impossible with the rip cut, so I just broke my jig saw! I used a 1×2 scrap piece as a guide for my fish and mark it on the bib (top left). Then I clamped my cut to one end and cut as far as I could with a jig saw. I loosened, flipped it over, and cut off the rest of the line. I followed the same process with my two bib pieces to get the width I wanted. Done, easily! And security. 😉 Tips for pocket holes on thicker wood 1 The thickness of reclaimed wood is 1 inch so I need to adjust the Kreg Jig and collar depth on my drill bit accordingly. If you are using 3/4 ” thick wood you will need to make adjustments for that thickness. You can see how easy it is to drill the pocket holes with an angled cut, just make sure the end of the pieces flush down the jig when you install it. Here’s a snapshot of all my pocket openings. The ones on the top of the legs will fasten to the overhead seat panel. (And all of these pocket hole locations are detailed in the woodworking plans!) I also want to point out that I had to adjust the length of the screw to 1 1/2 “to match the thickness of my tablet. It’s very important to remember this when using the pocket hole jig. Again, if you are using 3/4 inch wood, you’ll use 1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws. Build a simple DIY wooden chair. Get the complete cut list and dimensions in our printable wood stool plans. The plans also include the complete assembly instructions, which are also detailed in the pictures here step. 1: Assemble the Wood Stool Seat After you cut the pieces lengthwise with the dimensions and edges listed in the plans, you will connect the two seat pieces together using wood glue and pocket hole screws. I always make sure to install my panels in the process so that the seams do not shift while drilling into the screws Step 2: Assemble the legs of the stool to build the seat, I started by adding two pieces of the apron to the top of one leg, making sure they match the top (the top pictures). Then I glued the other leg and fastened it to the pieces of the apron and added the screws. To use a shorter drill bit for this, because Space was tight. Using a right angle drill or drill attachment is really helpful. I want to point out that you can build the legs of the stool without pocket holes too, just pre-drill and screw through the legs from the outside to the bib pieces using 2 to 2 1/2 inch screws. I measured and marked where I wanted my backing plate to the legs of the stool and attached it to the pocket hole screws. Step 3: Attaching the leg assembly to the seat On the underside of the stool seat, I measured and marked where the upper legs should be placed. I like to use a combination box for fast and accurate marking. Next, I attached the legs to the seat using the pocket hole screws with the pocket holes on the legs. I also screwed the aprons into the seat with 2 ” screws, and you can also use the screws. This is! Just 3 steps to build your own wooden chair! Click here to add DIY Wood Stool Plans to your cart. Finishing Handcrafted Reclaimed Wood Stool Since I wound up the new edges, I needed to stain it to match the look of the natural reclaimed wood. I decided to use natural vinegar and hardwood paint (like this recipe) to help standardize the pieces with a nice natural gray. On the left I tested it on a scrap piece to see if I liked it, and on the right I put it on a stool. I have used this same stain on many projects such as chalkboard coat stand and Marvel Subway Art. You might have noticed that I filled the holes in my pocket with wood filler … I wasn’t quite sure I should have done it, I think they probably mixed better without getting filled. Okay, life lessons, I tried to paint them with some literal paint to try to blend them better, but totally forgot to take pictures of that process … but I don’t think I did a very good job anyway. Ugh. Thank God they are not visible at least now. The sliced side of the legs that I tore was very different in color, but hey, I think it adds character. 😉 I closed it with 3 layers of polycarbonate, sanded with 400 grit sandpaper between first and second coats for a nice smooth finish. This shot is by my front door right under the mailbox, and it might be a good home so my kids don’t move porch chairs to get mail every afternoon! Love the rustic vivid edges of the reclaimed wood panels … and the fun thick legs. It can be a nice addition to any room in the house. (See more of this catwalk character here.) It looks great in the boys’ room, but I might steal it for the kitchen! 🙂 It’s good that I am not hesitant! (Wink wink) This is really a simple construction especially if you are using the dimensional wood that I provided on my cut list. You can always get creative with your finishing touches and make them look like reclaimed wood (using a method like this, this, or this homemade stain), or just paint them! Happy building! Mindi More Great Projects for Reclaimed Wood: First published November 12, 2016 // Last update March 17, 2021 Pinterest Facebook Twitter Remodelaholic is a participant in Amazon Services LLC Associates, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a way for sites to earn advertising fees by Advertising and linking to amazon.com. Please see our full disclosure here. Publication date: March 26, 2021, submitted under: Beginner, Build, By Cost, By Level, By Material, By Style, By Tool, Circular Saw, Contributor, DIY, DIY Project Plans, Digging, Farm, Free Up To $ 20, Furniture building projects and plans, how-to, informational, jig saw, miter saw, pocket hole jig, benches, tools, tutorials, wood and plywood etc. Tagged: end tables, industrial, planter stand, reclaimed wood, rustic, benches, side table, stools You have a great love of DIY, repurpose, and create! I constantly strive to make things more useful, functional and beautiful in my home one project at a time. My projects are being implemented in educational form so that I can inspire others to create my blog as well!